Balms or resins

Balms and resins are raw materials used in the composition of perfumes.
They often intervene in fragrances of the oriental or amber family.
These materials complement vanilla and bring a note of mystery to the fragrance.
Balms and resins are also called balsamic notes.
The most used balms and resins in perfumery are myrrh, frankincense, styrax, benzoin, Peru balsam, and Copahu balsam.

Myrrh 

Myrrh is an aromatic gum-resin that is produced by the myrrh tree (Commiphora Myrrha). Considered to be the most exquisite and precious perfume, it is composed of 60% gum, 30% resin essence and a bitter note. There are more than a hundred different varieties of myrrh. They are also called Commiphora Myrrha and are native to Saudi Arabia and Abyssinia. The three best-known species are: 

• The Commiphora Myrrha Nees
• The Commiphora abyssinica
• The Commiphora schimperi 

The varieties most prized in perfumery are those that produce "oleo-gum-resin", in the form of natural exudations, real fragile and shiny "tears", with a color ranging from light yellow to dark red and with a strong aromatic odor.

Perfumers use myrrh essence obtained by steam distillation of the gum harvested from the tree. It has an intense and rising balsamic scent with licorice, woody, almost fruity facet and a scent of incense.

Myrrh is also widely associated with religion, particularly in the form of incense, during the worship of the Gods in Antiquity, and as an offering by the Magi. In Greek mythology, myrrh is associated with Myrrha, the incestuous daughter of the King of Cyprus, who was transformed into a myrrh tree before giving life to Adonis.

Incense 

Incense comes from the Latin "incendere", which means “to burn, to shine”, it also gave the name “incandescent”. It is also called olibanum, which comes from “laban” which means “white or purity”.

The olibanum symbolizes the protective power of God, which purifies all sins.

The Queen of Sheba often offered it to Solomon.

Incense is collected on incense trees. The notion of incense tree has a collective meaning. It includes a number of species of Boswellia from various countries: Somalia, Yemen, Sudan, Ethiopia and India, each with specific olfactory characteristics.

The most frequently used tree is the Boswellia carteri Roxb. They are all 4 to 5 meter tall shrubs from the mountains of the Middle East and Africa. Incense trees have a trunk and branches with grey bark that can be easily removed.

In perfumery, the gum is harvested after incision of the tree trunk. A week later, the incense beads are harvested, then steam distilled to obtain the essence.

Olfactive description of incense

• Boswellia Sacra of Oman has a mint and eucalyptus note.
• Boswellia Serrata from India and Boswellia papyrifera have a bitter lemon facet.
• Boswellia frereana or Maydi has accents of floral and fruity caramel, it is used by the Coptic Church of Ethiopia.
• Boswellia Rivae has gourmet accents.
• The best known of these essences is a very powerful dark, aromatic base note with a camphor, resinous and smoky effect.

Uses of incense

• The uses of incense through the centuries have always corresponded to a certain ceremonial: worship of the Gods, remedies or perfumes.
• The ancient Egyptians used it to heal themselves, incense is a powerful antiseptic, also to embalm their dead (preservative of the flesh) and especially for fumigations in places of worship, for its spiritual power, but also to protect from miasmas.
• Religions have never stopped using it.
• East Asia devotes almost sacred attention to it in their private lives.
• Incense is also used in cosmetics. 

Styrax 

Like many other balms and resins, styrax balsam is secreted in the bark of two species of trees called liquidambar, native to Syria, Asia Minor and South America.

Liquid styrax is composed of a small proportion of resin, a benzine-smelling essence called styrol, cinnamic acid and styracin. The styrax essence is obtained by distillation of the balm. Its smell is strong and vanilla, balsamic, floral, but also animal, leathery, and close to tar.

Benzoin 

Benzoin is a balsamic resin. Also called benzoin gum or tear, it is secreted by the trunk of the Styrax Tonkinensis of the Styracaceae family. In perfumery, this gum is processed by extraction with volatile solvents to obtain benzoin absolute, a very rich, multi-faceted notes. It has the scent of sweet vanilla, almond, roasted coffee, honey, floral (close to carnation), milky, syrupy and even medicinal.

Origins of benzoin

Benzoin comes from Siam, Sumatra, the Indonesian island, as well as Laos, once called "the country of a million elephants". Each year, the country produces about 50 tons of it, 2/3 of which are exported to Europe. They are mainly found in the north of the country, in the province of Phôngsali, a mountainous region with immense forests.

Benzoin balm is harvested by hand, creating a notch in the bark of the trunk in several places to make the tree cry and collect the benzoin tears. In its liquid state, this exudation is white and turns yellow as it dries. When it is harvested, about 6 months later, it is already half solid. The benzoin is then taken to warehouses where it is treated like gold nuggets then cleaned and sorted.

Uses of benzoin

Discovered scientifically in 1853 by Garcia de Orta, benzoin was once burned in homes to purify the atmosphere, attract positive waves and keep away undesirable beings and creatures.

Benzoin is also used in the composition of balms with healing and antiseptic virtues. It perfumes the Eau de Botot, the mouth water used by Louis XV and also enters the composition of the Baume de la Ferté, created in 1830 by Pierre-François-Pascal Guerlain, a very effective balm to treat chapped lips and other cracks. The product is known today as "Super Lips".

Benzoin also played a role in the care of lung diseases. In addition, benzoin tears develop a very sweet fragrance, much appreciated in Buddhist temples where it is used as incense. Benzoin has long been considered as a variety of incense or myrrh and as a precious substance.

The different varieties of benzoin 

There are different qualities of benzoin: 

• The benzoin from Laos: very qualitative, with a vanilla and caramel note, without being too sweet, also powdery and milky.
• The benzoin of Siam: a variety very sought-after by perfumers, very rare and very expensive. It has a very present vanilla facet.
• Sumatran benzoin: obtained from two sources, styrax benzoin and styrax parallelorum. 

Perfumes containing benzoin

• Bois des Îles Chanel
• Habanita Molinard
• Opium YSL
• L’Eau Diptyque
• Serge Noire Serge Lutens 
• Shalimar Guerlain
• L’Heure Bleue Guerlain
• L’Instant Guerlain

Balsam of Peru 

Peru balsam, is a natural balsamic resin of brown or red color. It is a product derived from the resin of a tree: Myroxylon pereirae, native to Central America (San Salvador, Colombia and Venezuela). The tree, therefore, does not grow in Peru as its name might suggest. However, it was once exported from one of its ports, Callao. Like Tolu balsam, Peru balsam is obtained by incising the bark of the Peruvian balsam tree, the result of a pathological reaction of the tree.

The essential oil is obtained by steam distillation of the balsam and the resinoid by extraction with volatile solvents. Its scent is vanilla, sweet, with notes of caramel, cinnamon, and a slight pharmaceutical note.

Like Tolu Balm, Peru Balm is found in many familiar products. Its presence in cosmetics or perfumes is often unknown, allergies are therefore quite common, mainly caused by coniferyl benzoate, a major allergen.

The various uses of Peruvian Balm

Peru balsam is found in many cosmetic and food products, such as flavoured teas and pastries, but also in many medical applications (cough syrup, efferalgan...) and in some household products, such as disinfectants or other products against dust.

The first major application of the essential oil of Peruvian balsam is dermatological. Applied as an ointment, it will allow you to easily treat all problems of dry, damaged, chapped, or cracked skin. It will also be very useful for young mothers who are breastfeeding and who suffer from nipple cracks because it promotes cell renewal.

The essential oil of Peru balsam is a tonic that helps fight hypotension and fatigue by stimulating the body and immune system, as well as a powerful disinfectant of the respiratory tract and fluidifying bronchial secretions. The essential oil of Peruvian balsam also promotes relaxation and meditation.

Copahu Balm 

Resin extraction

Copahu balsam is an oleoresin extracted from different species of South American trees of the genus Copaifera (or copaea). It is harvested by drilling the trunks of these trees and inserting a tube to collect the substance that flows from them, which can then be steam distilled to obtain the essential oil.

Various uses

Copahu balm is used in pharmacies for its many therapeutic virtues: anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, healing, expectorant and anti-rheumatic.

Olfactive description in perfumery

This balm is described as woody, resinous and spicy, with aromatic accents (mint and eucalyptus). The scent is quite sweet and has a woody character that could be similar to sandalwood.

Copahu Balm Scents

Here is a list of perfumes whose description indicates that the copahu balm is present in the composition:

• Aouda Comptoir Sud Pacifique
• Bois d'Arménie Guerlain
• Bois d'Ombrie Eau d'Italie
• Cerruti Si Cerruti
• Kingdom Alexander McQueen
• Pure Oud By Kilian 
• Songes Annick Goutal
• Bois de Copaïba Parfumerie Générale
• Tam Dao Diptyque

Sylvaine Delacourte fragrances

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