Beeswax
“Nothing is more like a soul than a bee. It goes from flower to flower as a soul goes from star to star, and brings back honey as a soul brings back light.”
- Victor Hugo, Ninety-three.
Beeswax is one of the natural raw materials used in perfumery. The essential oil of honey does not exist, but perfumers are able to orchestrate the honeyed notes of beeswax with many other facets or olfactory families.
History of honey
Beeswax is secreted by honey bees, they use this material to build the combs of their hive and store honey and pollen. The term honey comes from the Latin word nel. The product that has always existed and has a strong symbolic value. It was considered to be the nectar of the gods and was used in religious rituals and embalming. In some cultures, honey is considered an elixir of long life, many medicinal and cosmetic properties are attributed to it.
Description of beeswax in perfumery
Beeswax evokes a taste of honey and has a mouth-watering note that brings a sensation of softness and roundness, this is the result of the incredible work of the bees.
The honey note is very interesting in perfumes and can even be regressive for some people (it evokes childhood). It is a nourishing, sunny, mellow note that brings a lot of tenacity and naturalness to a perfume. Moreover, the honey note has multiple facets, with scents of grass, hay, tobacco, as well as gourmand, fruity or leathery facets. It goes particularly well with orange blossom, which already contains a honeyed facet in its absolute.
Beeswax absolute has an encaustic, slightly honeyed, herbaceous, waxy smell with hints of tobacco and hay, aniseed, spicy, fruity, and leather accents, depending on the other natural scents that will surround it.
The beeswax note is quite difficult to work with. Indeed, it can have a tendency to be too animal-like, or to remind one of an encaustic product: it must therefore be handled sparingly. It has the advantage of giving a lot of naturalness to a floral fragrance.
Some perfumers prefer to create bases containing several honeyed raw materials, rather than using beeswax alone in a composition.
This raw material is rather used in heart and base notes. However, if the honeyed facet is important, it can permeate the entire fragrance, from take-off to conclusion.
Note: beeswax is not a vegan product.
The honeyed notes in perfumery
Honeyed notes, such as beeswax, can be natural or synthetic.
Natural honeyed notes
In perfumery, natural honey notes can be found in the following products:
- Absolute beeswax: its scent is rather butyric, very honeyed, close to broom (shrub with yellow flowers).
- Absolute hay from the company IFF.
- Notes of blond tobacco can also give a honeyed scent.
- Some flowers can give honey notes, such as broom absolute with its complex and rather dark note of wax and cassia.
- Honeysuckle or seringa, cassia, mimosa, immortal, privet and pittosporum are other flowers with honeyed facets.
Honeyed synthetic notes
Here are the main bases, or synthetic honeyed notes used in perfumery:
- Robertet honey: base.
- White honey: base from Symrise.
- Absolute Turkish Tobacco: honeyd, animal, leather base.
- White Honey (Laire's base): honeyed, polish smell.
- Honey from Provence (Firmenich base): tobacco, aniseed, honeydew, curry, immortal, coumarin, hay.
- Phenyl acetic acid: honeyed, fruity, a little dirty, close to blackcurrant.
- Cinnamic alcohol.
- Aldheyde Phenyl acetic acid: very vegetal note, wet, cold, dewy, honeyed.
- Phenyl acetate and phenyl ethyl acetate.
- Nectarol: rather singular note.
- Phenyl acetate isobutyl: pear, hedione, rose.
- Hydratropic Aldehyde: not very powerful, reminiscent of a cereal bar, apricot.
- Acetophenone: white glue note, slightly medicinal.
Honeyd notes and olfactory families
The honeyed notes have the particularity of being able to dress many fragrances and bring a warm, sweet and animal touch to all the following olfactory families of fragrances:
- Chypre: Gentleman by Givenchy; Rose Barbare and Chypre Fatal by Guerlain.
- Woody: Féminité du Bois by Serge Lutens; Rose Ikebana by Hermès.
- Oriental: Ambre Narguilé by Hermès; Rahat Loukoum, L'Innommable, Miel de Bois by Serge Lutens; Gucci by Gucci; Angel Muse by Mugler.
- Demi-oriental: L'Instant by Guerlain.
- Flowers: Néroli Intense by Nicolai; Chat Perché by Annick Goutal; Mélodie de l'Amour by Dusita; L'Envol by Cartier.
- Leathers: Cuir Venenum by Pierre Guillaume.
- Vanilla: Vanori by Sylvaine Delacourte.
- Orange blossom: Osiris by Sylvaine Delacourte.
Honey note: a beneficial note
The products made by bees are very rich, varied, and have many health and dietary benefits (honey, royal jelly, propolis, for example). They are rich in calories, oxidants, carbohydrates and potassium, and have a prebiotic effect.
Honey is also widely used in cosmetics for its regenerating and healing powers. Finally, beeswax, as well as the many other honeyed notes, brings delicious, enveloping scents to a perfume.
Sylvaine Delacourte fragrances
Discover Sylvaine Delacourte's brand with her Orange Blossom, Musk and Vanilla Collections. You can try them thanks to the Discovery Boxes (5 Eaux de Parfum x 2 ml) and rediscover these raw materials as you have never smelled them before.
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Aromatic herbs
Aromatic herbs typically evoke gastronomy, but they are also used in perfumery as raw materials. Aromatic herbs are always present in perfumes belonging to the fougère olfactory family, also known as the fern family. In perfumery, aromatic herbs are fresh and energizing raw materials. Aromatics herbs are classified in three main groups: Lavender notes Mint notes Aniseed notes
Civet
Animal notes of natural origin are today forbidden in the perfume industry. The main ones are civet, musk, castoreum, ambergris and hyraceum. Natural animal notes in perfume creation were used in very subtle fragrances to enhance smoothness in fragrances. Some flowers such as the jasmine, naturally contain animal notes called the indole that can be isolated and used by perfumers to enhance the other notes.
Spices
Spices are among the natural raw materials used in perfumery. There are two categories: fresh spices and hot spices. Fresh spices act mainly as top notes in a perfume, and warm spices will develop mainly as heart and base notes.
Woods
Woods are part of the botanical raw materials used in the perfume compositions, just like fruits and flowers. Many woods can be used in perfumery, such as: sandalwood cedar patchouli vetiver cypress oud wood gaiac wood birch wood
Synthetic raw materials
Modern perfumery was born at the end of the 19th century. At that time, perfumers began to incorporate synthetic ingredients into their formulas, which amplified the palette of the professional, offering them more creativity. It also allows for more abstract olfactory forms. Today, chemists are able to isolate aromatic compounds from a natural raw material, purify them and obtain the molecular structure of the raw material. Once this structure is identified, the specialist will be able to use organic chemistry to recompose the molecules. As pictorial art has acquired a new dimension with synthetic dyes, perfumery has reached new heights and has allowed new scents with synthetic products.
Balms or resins
Balms and resins are raw materials used in the composition of perfumes. They often intervene in fragrances of the oriental or amber family. These materials complement vanilla and bring a note of mystery to the fragrance. Balms and resins are also called balsamic notes. The most used balms and resins in perfumery are myrrh, frankincense, styrax, benzoin, Peru balsam, and Copahu balsam.
Castoreum
Castoreum is a secretion from the beaver. Now banned from use, castoreum is one of the natural animal notes used in perfumery, that also include: Civet Animal musk Ambergris Hyraceum
Flowers
Flowers are raw materials used in perfumery. There are different categories of flowers in perfumery: Green, spring or vegetal flowers White or sensual flowers, solar flowers Roses Spicy flowers Powdery flowers Atypical or rare flowers
Other plant materials
There are animal, synthetic and vegetable raw materials used in perfume compositions. The latter are composed of flowers, fruits, spices, woods, balms and resins. There are also many other plant materials that can be used in a fragrance. We have listed them below.
Musk
Animal musk was one of the animal raw materials used in perfumery, along with civet, castoreum, ambergris and hyraceum. Musk is now banned in perfumery, there are many alternatives to avoid using these natural animal notes. There are perfumes as cool as the flesh of children,Sweet as oboes, green as meadows— And others are corrupt, and rich, triumphant,With power to expand into infinity,Like amber and incense, musk, benzoin,That sings the ecstasy of the soul and senses.- Charles Baudelaire, Correspondance
Fruits
Fruits are among the raw materials used in perfumery. Some fruits can be used naturally, while others have to be processed through synthesis, as it is impossible to extract their essence.
Ambergris
Ambergris is a concretion secreted by the sperm whale, with the appearance of a grey stone. It is rejected by the animal, floats to the surface and is then harvested. This animal raw material is very rare and therefore very expensive. Under no circumstances the sperm whale is harmed or killed to recover this material, so it is authorised. It is one of the main natural animal notes, just like : Civet Musk Castoreum Hyraceum
Hyraceum
Hyraceum, also called African Stone, is an animal essence used in perfumery. It is part of the natural animal notes, along with civet, musk, castoreum and ambergris.